When you think of safaris, Kenya is probably the one of first countries that come to mind. And rightly so: Kenya is the birthplace of safari, and the place the word itself was coined (safari means journey in Kiswahili).
When it comes to wildlife, Kenya really has it all! From the famous Big Five (lion, rhino, elephant, leopard and buffalo) to the jaw-dropping great wildebeest migration, there's so much life to see here. And with fantastic safari infrastructure, getting around is surprisingly easy. This is exactly why Kenya is so popular with those looking for their first ever safari.
I've been to Kenya for safari several times now, and each time I fall in love with this country all over again! I've had some of my best ever wildlife encounters here. In this guide I'm going to delve into everything that I've learnt about booking the perfect first safari in Kenya.
Lion
For first-time safari-goers, one of the most obvious attractions about a Kenya safari is the fact that the country has all of the Big Five: lions, elephants, rhinos, leopards, and buffalo .
The Maasai Mara is famous for its big cat sightings whilst both black and white rhinos are found in relatively high numbers at Lake Nakuru. In addition, some of the largest elephant herds on the continent reside in Amboseli National Park.
Kenya is also the backdrop for one of the world's most renowned wildlife events: the great wildebeest migration. This unforgettable spectacle is the world's largest overland migration, seeing more than 1.5 million wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles pass through Kenya from mid-July to mid-October each year.
As well as the incredible sights Kenya has to offer, it also has the advantage of being very accessible. Nairobi airport is one of the busiest in Africa, enjoying direct connections to London, Amsterdam, Dubai, Doha and many other cities besides.
What's more, the country's parks and reserves are located relatively close to one another and connected by airstrips as well as a network of generally good roads, simplifying travel between destinations.
In terms of accommodation, there are dozens of options to suit any budget, from basic camping all the way up to luxurious lodges, and just about everything in between!
Wildebeest
Kenya's year is divided into two rainy periods and two dry periods, each with different wildlife highlights and safari prices.
For your first safari, I'd recommend the long dry season (June-October), with pleasant temperatures, optimal wildlife viewing and the great wildebeest migration to marvel at. However, as it's peak season, prices are higher and the best accommodation sells out well in advance .
The second most popular time to visit Kenya is the short dry season (December-February), with quieter parks, lower park fees and great weather . At this time of year many animals start to give birth and it's not uncommon to see the open plains dotted with adorable baby impalas and topis, taking their first wobbly steps. Grass is vibrant but not too long, allowing big cats stand out clearly. Maasai Mara park fees are 50% lower during the first half of the year.
Mid-October to mid-December is the short rainy season. This is a personal favourite time of mine to visit as the weather isn't too bad with rains largely being restricted to the afternoons. The parks are significantly quieter than the dry seasons and the vibrant green landscape is perfect for photography.
The long rainy season (March to May) is the least favorable time to visit, as game viewing is impeded by heavy showers and flooding is a real possibility.
Topi
One thing that sets Kenya apart as a safari destination is the variety of its landscapes, from open savannah in the southwest to semi-arid wilderness in the north. It might seem difficult to choose which of the country's many parks to include in your first safari, so here are my top picks to help narrow it down!
The Maasai Mara National Reserve in the southwest is Kenya's most renowned wildlife area, boasting one of the planet's highest predator densities as well as the great wildebeest migration. Home to over 95 mammal species including the Big Five, it's no surprise that the Mara is Kenya's standout destination for first-timers.
Amboseli National Park in the south is renowned for its huge elephant herds and exceptional views of Mount Kilimanjaro as well as its resident Big Tuskers, whose enormous tusks weigh over 50 kilograms.
The compact Lake Nakuru National Park in the Rift Valley is renowned for its flamingos, stunning scenery and excellent rhino sightings, housing Kenya's first ever rhino sanctuary with a current population of over 150.
The three parks above can easily be combined into a week-long itinerary. If you have more time, however, there are a few other gems just waiting to be discovered.
At Northern Kenya's Samburu National Reserve, look out for the Samburu Special Five, which are unique to the region: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and beisa oryx . Less frequented and more intimate than the Maasai Mara, it also offers a chance to see African wild dog.
Among the private conservancies in Central Kenya's Laikipia region is Ol Pejeta, East Africa's largest black rhino sanctuary and home to the world's last two northern white rhinos . Laikipia is also the best place in Kenya to see the critically endangered African wild dog .
Further south, Tsavo is famous for its red elephants, coloured by the local volcanic soil.
Giraffe
Most safaris are private custom safaris which means that you can design your safari to your exact liking! However, most visitors on safari are looking for similar experiences so I will detail below what a typical safari looks like.
A typical Kenyan safari will combine a handful of wildlife-rich national parks over a period of 5-10 days with 7 day safaris being the most popular choice.
Safaris tend to start in Kenya's capital city of Nairobi, where you will be greeted at the airport by your driver guide, who will take care of you for the entire safari. Depending on when your flight arrives, you will either head to a nearby hotel to rest or you can even start your safari adventure right away and hit the road.
There are two key modes of transport for safaris: minivans and Land Cruisers. Both vehicles have pop-up roofs which allow for great wildlife viewing but the Land Cruiser is more roomy, luxurious and has off-road capabilities, allowing you to navigate down roads which minivans can't.
Distances between parks vary. Some are as close as 3 hours away, others up to 9 hours away. For this reason I actually think it's better to just visit 2 or 3 locations to save on journeying time and maximise your time on game drives.
Flying between parks is also an option. It's extremely convenient as each park and reserve has an airstrip. The main drawback is the price. Domestic flights cost between $250 and $550 per person per flight.
Most lodges and camps are located just outside the national parks and reserves. Park fees are slightly cheaper but staying outside the wildlife areas does restrict you.
Some parks operate a 24 hour permit which allows you access to the park for a 24 hour period. This puts a deadline on leaving the park the following day.
The Maasai Mara's park fee is only valid for 12 hours and is a pay-per-entry fee. This means you cannot leave the reserve to go back to your lodge during that 12 hours or else you'd have to pay again. This means that you'll need to bring a picnic lunch (provided by your lodge or camp) in order to stay out all day.
In terms of the best time to be on safari, early mornings and late evenings are when most animals are active as these are the coolest times of day. You'll therefore want to schedule your days to allow you to make the most of these times.
Alongside classic game drives, Kenya offers several unique activities such as dawn hot air balloon rides over the Maasai Mara ($450 to $550 per person, concluding with a champagne bush breakfast). Private conservancies around the Mara offer night game drives focusing on nocturnal animals such as servals, aardvarks, and bat-eared foxes . If you're into photography, tell your tour operator and they'll arrange an open-sided Land Cruiser.
When it comes to booking your Kenya safari, there are several options, but based on my own experience, booking through a local tour operator is by far the best approach. I find that these offer the best value and also can't be beaten on local knowledge or quality of service.
Because they work with margins of 10 to 15 percent and have access to trade rates on accommodation, local operators can often organise your trip for a similar price you'd pay if booking each part yourself. Meanwhile, international travel agents apply a significant markup for the same accommodation and parks, while outsourcing the safari itself to a local operator. This leaves you paying way more for an identical trip.
The price for a budget private safari in Kenya booked through a local operator starts at around $300 per person per day and includes park fees, accommodation, vehicle, guide, meals and fuel. For a luxury trip, costs vary between $1,500 and over $5,000 per person per day at exclusive conservancy camps . If you're travelling solo, plan to spend approximately $500 per person per day, as you won't be sharing vehicle and guide costs with other passengers . If you're hoping for a more affordable trip, you could consider a shared group safari, with prices starting at about $220 per person per day for a quality experience .
Ideally, I'd advise opting for a private safari as this will allow you total control of your itinerary. This means you choose where you go and when, which sightings to prioritize, and how long you stay at each one . For me, a maximum of 2 or 3 people in the back of the safari truck is ideal as it means I can move around freely for sightings on both sides .
Lastly, when choosing a local operator, it's important to pick one with a good reputation rather than going with the cheapest option. Look for a company with plenty of online reviews across numerous platforms and consistently positive ratings for at least the last two years . After all, a safari trip is a significant expense, and it's worth putting in a little time and research to make sure your operator delivers the best possible value and experience!
Elephant
In terms of clothing, temperatures in Kenya fluctuate significantly over the day, so be sure to dress in layers. I usually wear a tank top under a linen shirt with a warm sweater on top, removing layers gradually as it gets warmer . Whatever the season, always bring a waterproof coat as you never know when it may rain. Casual dress is fine at lodges in the evenings, so you can leave your formal wear at home and travel lighter!
It's also important to wear neutral colors such as beiges, browns, muted greens, and greys, especially for walking safaris. Avoid black, dark blue as they attract tsetse flies, which have a nasty bite .
In terms of footwear, I always travel with a sturdy pair of boots with ankle support as well as more casual footwear such as sandals to wear around the lodges.
Insect repellent is essential for all safaris, as is sunscreen; Kenya's location on the equator means you can even get sunburn on cloudy days .
If you're taking any domestic flights in Kenya, the light aircraft that fly between parks usually have a strict 15kg weight limit for baggage, so use fabric bags rather than hard cases .
Ostrich
Taking care of practical things like paperwork, vaccinations and cash before your flight to Nairobi leave you more time to enjoy the wildlife and the scenery when you land.
While you don't need a traditional visa to enter Kenya, you will require an electronic travel authorization (eTA), which you must apply for online at etakenya.go.ke in advance of your trip - I'd recommend at least two weeks before travelling (cost $30 USD per person). Your passport expiration date should be at least six months after you arrival date and your passport must have at least two blank pages . I applied for my Kenya eTA well in advance and had no issues at the border .
If you're travelling from a country where Yellow Fever is present or planning to visit neighboring countries like Tanzania, Uganda or Rwanda Yellow Fever vaccination is a must.
Since Kenya is a high-risk area for malaria, you should take anti-malarial medication throughout your stay . I take malaria prevention medication on all my Kenya trips.
When planning how much cash to bring, remember that tipping is commonplace in Kenya, and the preferred currency is USD . For a party of two, you should budget about $20 per day in gratuities for your driver guide and $5 per adult per night for accommodation staff .
Most payments in Kenya can be made using a card. Note that Visa cards are very reliable for ATM withdrawals and Mastercard works infrequently . It's also advisable to notify your bank about your upcoming trip so your account doesn't get blocked .
From the breathtaking great migration in the Maasai Mara to Amboseli's enormous elephant herds, Kenya is ideal for a first-time safari. What's more, its excellent transport connections and expert tour operators will ensure things go smoothly. No matter where you go or for how long, you'll leave Kenya already planning to return!
This was written by Ella McKendrick
Sara Essop is a travel blogger and writer based in South Africa. She writes about family travel and experiences around the world on her blog "In Africa and Beyond". Although she has been to 53 countries thus far, she especially loves showcasing her beautiful country and is a certified South Africa Specialist.
