We had just settled into the rhythm of the late-afternoon game drive when Jonathan, our ranger, slowed down and pointed to a marula tree in a vast area dubbed Serengeti Plains. Under its shade, five cheetahs stretched and yawned, their amber eyes alert as they took turns licking each other's fur. A mother with her sub-adult cubs, it was the largest group of cheetahs I’d ever seen together — a rare and special encounter. There were no revving engines behind us, no convoy of safari vehicles jostling for a better view. Just us and three fellow guests, our ranger, and the setting sun.
Cheetahs
That’s the beauty of Nkomazi Private Game Reserve. Set in the shadow of Mpumalanga’s Barberton Makhonjwa Mountains, it is a safari experience refreshingly free of crowds. And though it’s only a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Johannesburg, this 15,000-hectare malaria-free sanctuary feels worlds away.
Main dining and lounging tent
I was first invited to the reserve in 2017, but I couldn’t make it at the time due to other commitments. For years, the invitation lingered at the back of my mind like an unopened gift, waiting for the right moment. Eight years later, I finally made the journey – and discovered that some places are worth waiting for.
Sunrise in the reserve
Spanning 15,000 hectares, the reserve is a mosaic of grasslands, rocky outcrops, and lush river valleys. Nkomazi means place of water, and the Komati River meanders for more than 30 kilometres through the reserve all the way to the Indian Ocean in Mozambique, nourishing the landscape and attracting wildlife all year-round.
Game drive with Jonathan
At sunrise one morning, we trailed two majestic lions as they padded silently through the bushveld. In the evening, we came across two lionesses reclining lazily in the grass. Our sightings also included black-backed jackals, elusive brown hyenas, and herds of elephants, buffalo, and plains game. One particularly memorable morning was spent sipping hot chocolate on Pride Rock—so named for its resemblance to the iconic outcrop in The Lion King—while wildebeest and zebras grazed below and lions watched them from afar.
Some of the wildlife we saw
Yet Nkomazi’s appeal lies not only in its wildlife, but in the ancient stories written into its landscapes. The reserve sits within Mpumalanga’s Barberton Greenstone Belt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the oldest geological formations on the planet, dating back more than 3.5 billion years old.
Barberton Makhonjwa Mountains
Beyond its ecological significance, Nkomazi is also rich in cultural heritage. Ancient San rock art sites are scattered across the reserve, offering glimpses into the spiritual and daily lives of the hunter-gatherers who lived here thousands of years ago.
Rock art in the reserve
Within the camp’s fences, nyalas wander freely, nibbling quietly between pathways. One afternoon, a cheeky monkey joined us in the dining room for lunch but limited himself to a sachet of brown sugar when he found so many pairs of eyes on him. At night and in the early hours of the morning, we frequently heard the guttural calls of a leopard across the river, staking its territorial claim, a wild reminder that even in the safety of the camp the bush is never far away.
Our tent
Accommodation consists of 14 explorer-style tented suites, including a family tent and a presidential tent, each accommodating four people. Combining the charm of canvas with modern glamping comforts, they feature vast beds, air-conditioning, and en-suite bathrooms.
Inside our tent
The outdoor ball-and-claw bathtub, rain shower and plunge pool, perched on our private deck overlooking the river, were all perfectly positioned to capture uninterrupted river views, and we loved relaxing there. It was from this very deck that we witnessed the lunar eclipse and blood moon in the clear night skies, untouched by artificial light.
Outdoor bathtub
Meals are served in the dining tent or the outdoor deck, depending on the weather. The restaurant staff stood out for their warmth, greeting us with friendly smiles, and their genuine hospitality added a personal touch that made dining at Nkomazi feel extra special. In the evenings, dinner often moved to the spacious lantern-lit boma, where staff performed traditional songs beneath the African sky.
Breakfast with a view
Between game drives, you can indulge in spa treatments at the on-site spa, enjoy riverside picnics, or try your hand at catch-and-release fishing. Or simply relax on your private deck, watching wildlife wandering on the pathways along the river.
Dinnertime in the boma
Some journeys reveal themselves when the moment is right. For me, Nkomazi was one of them. Our stay there was a kaleidoscope of special experiences that we will treasure forever.
For more information, visit Nkomazi Private Game Reserve or book here.
Good to know
Getting to the reserve is easy enough, though the final stretch isn’t ideal for sedans. The lodge takes care of it with a complimentary daily transfer from the gate to camp, allowing you to arrive with ease.
The reserve is home to the Big Four (excluding rhino), cheetahs as well as other wildlife and birds.
Sara Essop is a travel blogger and writer based in South Africa. She writes about family travel and experiences around the world. Although she has been to 50 countries thus far, she especially loves showcasing her beautiful country and is a certified South Africa Specialist.
