Tucked away in the heart of Johannesburg, South Africa's bustling metropolis, lies Fordsburg – a district with a rich history, cultural tapestry, and delectable culinary offerings that stand as a testament to the city’s vibrant diversity.
A Brief History of Fordsburg
Fordsburg has a rich and multifaceted history. It was founded in 1888, primarily as a mining settlement following the discovery of gold on the Witwatersrand, and named after Lewis Peter Ford, who owned the land. As with many parts of Johannesburg, the gold rush played a significant role in the district's early days. The area grew as people arrived, hoping to find fortune or work related to the booming mining industry.
In 1922, Fordsburg witnessed the Rand Revolt (or Rand Rebellion), a massive strike by white miners that quickly escalated into an armed insurrection against the state. The event culminated with the Union Defence Force using infantry, artillery and bomber aircraft to crush the rebellion. Many people were killed and others injured. It was the biggest turbulent political upheaval in the Witwatersrand.
Thereafter, Fordsburg underwent numerous changes becoming a multi-cultural suburb. With the onset of apartheid laws in the latter half of the 20th century, especially the Group Areas Act, there were attempts to ethnically cleanse Fordsburg of non-white residents. While many were forcibly removed, a substantial number resisted, maintaining Fordsburg's multicultural identity.
During the apartheid era, Fordsburg was also a hub of resistance. The district harboured anti-apartheid activists and was known for its lively political discussions and gatherings, often held under the guise of community events to evade the watchful eyes of the regime. Many struggle activists used to meet at the Oriental Plaza in the 1940s and 1950s.
Fordsburg today
Today, Fordsburg and it's adjacent suburb of Mayfair, serve as a melting pot where Indian, African, and Middle Eastern cultures converge. The air is filled with the aroma of food from the restaurants, the sounds of calls to prayer from the mosques, and the hum of multiple languages being spoken in the marketplaces.
Strolling down its streets, one can witness the beauty of Islamic architecture juxtaposed with colonial-era buildings, creating a beautiful blend of the old and new. Many of the buildings now house abaya shops and restaurants.
The Oriental Plaza, Fordsburg's shopping hub, is a haven for bargain hunters, offering everything from vibrant fabrics to intricate jewellery and, of course, a plethora of spices.
Arguably, one of the biggest draws to Fordsburg is its food. The streets are lined with eateries offering a wide range of cuisines, from traditional Indian dishes such as biryanis and samoosas, to Middle Eastern delicacies like shawarmas and falafels. The food in Fordsburg isn't just sustenance; it's an experience. Whether you're sitting down at a sophisticated restaurant or grabbing a quick bite from a street vendor, the food is sure to tantalize your taste buds.
For those with a sweet tooth, Fordsburg does not disappoint. Bakeries and sweet shops, reminiscent of those in the Middle East and South Asia, display trays laden with syrupy jalebis, creamy burfees, and crunchy baklavas. The experience of having a freshly brewed cup of chai with these sweets, while watching the world go by, is one that many cherish.
It's worth noting that Fordsburg's culinary scene is continually evolving, with new establishments popping up while old ones might close. However, these restaurants and eateries have earned their reputation over the years, offering delicious and authentic dishes that reflect Fordsburg's unique cultural tapestry.
North Indian cuisine
Bismillah Restaurant
Bay Leaf
World of Samoosas in the Oriental Plaza
South Indian Cuisine
Dosa Hut
Turkish Cuisine
Istanbul Kebab
Middle Eastern Cuisine
Syrian Rose
Amman
Fusion and fine dining
Casa Piquante in the Lilian Lofts Hotel
Fish and chips, and other South African fast food
Akhalwayas
Sollys Corner
No visit to Fordsburg is complete without experiencing its vibrant market scene, especially at the Fordsburg Square. By day, street vendors sell everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to electronics and clothes. As the sun sets, especially on weekends, night markets come alive, making the area a popular spot for both locals and tourists alike.
Fordsburg plays host to several festivals and events throughout the year, celebrating the myriad of cultures that call this district home. Beyond its history, food, and markets, what truly sets Fordsburg apart is its sense of community. Despite the hardships faced in the past, the spirit of unity and camaraderie is palpable. Religious institutions, community centres, and even simple cafes serve as places where people come together, share stories, and offer support.
Fordsburg isn't just a district; it's a living, breathing embodiment of Johannesburg’s multicultural identity. It's a place where histories intersect, cultures mingle, and community spirit prevails. Whether you're a food enthusiast, a history buff, or simply someone looking to soak in a unique cultural experience, Fordsburg promises a unique experience.
Good to know
Unfortunately, beggars and criminals are a problem in Fordsburg. Take precautions when exploring.
Sara Essop is a travel blogger and writer based in South Africa. She writes about family travel and experiences around the world. Although she has been to 50 countries thus far, she especially loves showcasing her beautiful country and is a certified South Africa Specialist.
I would love to go here soon